Treks are all marked with red dots (puntos rojos). Much like piercas, I cannot begin to describe how much relief these tiny red spots sprayed on rocks can bring. We would walk on a straight line until we didnt know what to do. Once we had no idea where to go, some miraculous red dot would shed some light on our way. I know it sounds rather corn but these red dots are almost poetic. Whenever we saw one, we would yell "... punto rojo" and we'd be instantly filled with a rush of calm that would last until we felt unsure about the path. We'd continue, restless, until either one of us saw another red dot or heard the other yell "punto rojo"
At one point, after walking the filo for 6 hours, I couldnt find a punto rojo. I had reached what seemed to be a dead end and my options were going down a glacier on my right side or going down a glacier on my left side.
I chose to go down the right side glacier but something felt wrong. Mayra also felt some weird about it and advised me to go back up. The fog was real thick and I couldnt see three feet ahead.
I knew this was a time when remaining calm was key, yet remaining calm when you are hungry, cold, tired and cranky can be quite tough.
I hiked back the 150 feet I had descended and began to think about what I could do, or better yet, what I should do. It is funny because, technically, we had nothing to worry about: I had a tent that fit 2 people, food and cooking gas, -10 graded sleeping bags. If it came down to it, all we had to do was set camp and spend the nite. However, it is very easy to see that when we are writing notes on a cosy and warm room, with hot cocoa and a private bathroom.
Back up in the filo again, we sat down and talked for a little bit...
"Nobody told us about going down glaciers"
"I know..."
"I mean, they would tell us"
"I know"
"It is not something you leave out of the vital information you need"
"I know..."
I closed my eyes for a little bit and thought about when I was hiking back from Laguna Sucia. That time, after trekking for a whole day, I had had no food and was starved. I was obviously tired and had begun to feel cold. The trek was relatively simple but all of these conditions began to add up. I chose to lay down for a little big, get some rest and recollect myself. It had worked like a charm a month ago so I figured it would work here.
I told Mayra we should stop for a bit, drop our backpacks and get some rest.
"No... it will get dark", she said
"Better dark and or our way than bright and completely lost", I replied
"I am not sure..."
"Listen, there has got to be a red do somewhere around here. Either the fog is too thick or we are too tired to see it. We'll get a little rest and it might pop up in front of our very eyes".
"You should be a politician..." she says.
"What !!"
"You really should"
"What is that got to do with anything ?"
"It is so funny that we are in the middle of nowhere and you are so eloquent, speaking about being unable to see what is right in front of our eyes"
"I am serious, you know"
"So am I", she says..."and I meant it as a compliment"
I felt good about what she said, she was being honest and I actually feel that is somewhat true about me. I smiled and got her to sit next to me for like ten minutes.
The wind began to blow and for a split second I thought it was the last thing we needed.
Only before I could conclude my thought, the wind cleaned the fog and showed a two foot long red arrow pointing the way, sprayed on a rock not 4 feet away from us.
"Punto Rojo !!!!!!" we both screamed
It was a great relief.
Two hours and a few punto rojos passed before we made it to the refuge
We were dead tired. It had been a four day journey altogether. The feeling of conquering the file was awesome and there was no haggard or hunger that could wipe the smile off of my face.
